German Adventures: Lessons Learned, Part 2

As I shared in Part 1 of this Travel Journal from my October visit to Germany, this trip was full of some ... valuable?  invaluable? ... lessons learned.

Lesson #1 was all about the Schengen Treaty and what that means for US passport holders.

Lesson #2 came about from a medical incident that altered our plans for this trip.

My mother arrived in Germany on October 2nd and stayed with my aunt.  I joined them later - on Sunday morning, October 6th.  I only had a week of vacation left from work, and originally my mother was supposed to travel over with my brother and his family who were embarking on a Germany-Austria-Switzerland vacation.  They were essentially only escorting her to Frankfurt and leaving her there until I arrived.

My favorite cousin (actually 2nd cousin - who is my age) picked me up from the airport.  We found a bakery that was open and had some coffee and cake in order to catch up on life since we'd seen each other last in June.  Then she drove me to my aunt's apartment, where I too was going to be staying.  She visited with my mother and aunt for a while ... and then she left - and I went to bed around 8 p.m. local time.

Monday morning, my mother and I had train tickets to go to Bamberg, a lovely city about a 3 hour ride from Frankfurt, to visit her friend, whom she has known since they were both in their early 20's.  My aunt escorted us to the train station, and then she was going to go run some errands, such as go to the bank, etc.

My mother and I had a lovely train ride on a regional train (slower than the ICE trains that would have taken less time).  I loved watching the countryside go by.  We stopped briefly in Würzburg, where we used to live - and I glimpsed the old fortress (Marienberg) that is situated above the Main River there.

My mother's friend lives on the outskirts of Bamberg, so we were not able to see any of the historic town, which I had long ago visited while we were stationed in Germany ... but it was more important to be with my mom's friend and her husband.  They had built a lovely home, and we enjoyed the conversation, food (Sauerbraten, Klösse [potato dumplings], red cabbage, and gravy), meeting their dog, and walking around their lovely neighborhood.  

Upon returning to Frankfurt around 8:30 p.m., we were expected to be greeted by my aunt ... however, her neighbor met us instead!  My aunt had experienced a mini-stroke and was in the hospital!  Thankfully, it only took her speech for a brief moment, and she was able to notify her neighbor and ask for her assistance in getting us back to the apartment, getting us a key, etc.  I even talked to her on the phone once we got back to the apartment, and she was coherent and able to speak clearly to me.

So, the lesson learned here is one we all already know - you just never know what will come your way!  We were so thankful that my aunt was okay, even though she had a short lapse of speech - while at the bank earlier in the day.  The bank workers called an ambulance, when actually, my aunt stated she felt better and wanted to go home!  However, it was the right call to go to a stroke unit and be fully examined, which would be the plan for the next days...

This incident would lead us to the next unexpected lesson to be learned the next day ... stay tuned!

For more information about Bamberg, see this previous post- German Cities & Towns:  Bamberg

It's Not Bad At All (German Spa Towns)

In years past, the American military were stationed in various locations that were German spa towns such as Bad Kreuznach, Bad Aibling, Bad Kissingen, and Bad Tölz.  Those towns weren't "bad" at all - they were a designated Bad (spa or resort) town.  When my dad was stationed at Wildflecken (affectionately known as "Wild Chicken") as a civilian employee, we lived in a town called Bad Brückenau.  It was a wonderful place to live (sadly, I was in college during those years and was only able to visit in the summer and at Christmas).

Anyway, these spa towns can be found all over Germany usually near some source of mineral spring water, with parks where one can take in the clean air and partake of relaxing treatments such as hydrotherapy, hot-cold baths, saunas, massage, Kneipp wading pools, and inhalatoriums (Grandierwerke), which produce saline-droplets that create an atmosphere much like sea air.

Being sent to the spa for Kur (a course of treatment, a cure) can be for preventative reasons, treatment, or recovery after an illness.  There are even Abmagerungskur for dieters.  (Abmagerung means weight loss; ironcially it is the same word used to define emaciation!)  Kur is often prescribed by a doctor and is covered by the German healthcare system.  Not a bad idea ....

Bad towns are very lovely.  Here are a few that I have visited (and as I come across more pictures, I will add more):

As I mentioned, my parents lived in Bad Brückenau for a few years, located in Northern Bavaria in the Bad Kissingen region.  Its curative waters are horribly sour tasting, but it was a favorite of Bavarian King Ludwig I, who funded some renovation of the town in the mid 1800's.

Bad Homburg is near Frankfurt, on the southern slope of the Taunus Mountains.  It is officially known as Bad Homburg von der Hoehe ("before the heights") to distinguish it from other towns called Bad Homburg.  This Bad Homburg is one of the wealthiest towns in Germany!  It boasts that it has Champagnerluft (Champagne air).  It also has a casino in the park.

Russian nobility particularly favored Bad Homburg, and there is a Russian chapel nearby, an Eastern Orthodox church, built in 1896.   (pictured above)

Bad Mergentheim is located in the Main-Tauber (Rivers) district of Baden-Würtenberg; it was recognized as a spa town in 1926.  Most interestingly (in my opinion!) is that this town was the headquarters of the Teutonic Order from 1526 until 1809.  Teutonic knights, as the members were called, were a voluntary military mercenary group who protected Christians on their pilgrimages to the Holy Land and in the Baltic regions, as well as often worked to establish hospitals.  

Bad Mergentheim as a Ordensmuseum (a museum of the Teutonic Order) located in the medieval castle that was once the home base of the German Teutonic knights.  The picture above was taken in Bad Mergentheim's market square.  

Have you visited a BAD town?  If so, I hope your experience was good!   :) 

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German Cities & Towns: Heidelberg

In an effort to preserve my memories and pictures of Germany, I am writing a series:  German Cities & Towns.  While you can get information about these cities from far more professional websites than mine, these are MY memories, perspectives, and pictures.  I hope you will enjoy them with me!  And share what are YOUR favorite German cities & towns.  

Today I am sharing some information and memories I have of visiting Heidelberg in 1996:

Heidelberg is a university town, located in southwestern Germany, just 50 miles south of Frankfurt, above the Neckar River.
Its castle ruins are probably one of the most recognizable and visited sites in Germany - among Ludwig's Neuschwanstein, Berlin's Brandenburg gate, and München's Oktoberfest ...

In 1996, the entry fee to the castle courtyard was a mere 2 Deutsch Mark and and included a stop to see the famous world's biggest wine barrel, which was built in  1751 and stands 7 meters high and holds 58,124 gallons of wine. There is even a dance floor on top of it!

The castle tour cost us another 4 DM each - but of course, was well worth the money!

Heidelberg's castle is an interesting mix of styles from Baroque to Gothic.  It was built in stages, first as a residence for the Prince-Elect Ruprecht III, starting in 1398, and in the 16th and 17th centuries two buildings were added to make the castle more of a fortress.  Much of the castle was destroyed during the Thirty Years' War (1618-1648) and the Palatine War of Succession (1688-1697).  Restoration attempts in 1764 by the prince elector of the time were thwarted by lightening.  Then the castle grounds were used as a kind of quarry to supply stone for new houses in the city of Heidelberg - until this was put to a stop in 1800 by Count Charles de Greimberg, who began the restoration process.

Johann von Goethe walked the parks of Heidelberg castle in the late 1700's; Mark Twain lived in the city in 1878 with his family.  Martin Luther was fetched to the city of Heidelberg shortly after posting his 95 Theses in Wittenberg to defend his writing in 1518.

On the northern bank of the Neckar River is the "Philosopher's Walk" where philosophers and university professors would discuss and contemplate.  Heidelberg is after all the home of the oldest university in Germany, founded in 1386.

I have visited Heidelberg several times in my life ... and it is true to state that "I lost my heart in Heidelberg" as a famous song, composed in 1925 by Fred Raymond with lyrics by Fritz Löhner-Beda and Ernst Neubach states.  This song remains Heidelberg's theme song as well as the inspiration for the 1927 film, The Student Prince in Old Heidelberg:

The Student Prince in Old Heidelberg, also known as The Student Prince and Old Heidelberg, is a 1927 Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer silent drama film based on the 1901 play Old Heidelberg by Wilhelm Meyer-Förster.  (source)

Other Cities To Read About:

Rothenburg o.d. Tauber

Bamberg

Dinkelsbühl

German Cities & Towns: Dinkelsbühl

In an effort to preserve my memories and pictures of Germany, I am writing a series:  German Cities & Towns.  While you can get information about these cities from far more professional websites than mine, these are MY memories, perspectives, and pictures.  I hope you will enjoy them with me!  And share what are YOUR favorite German cities & towns.  


In April of 1996, soon after arriving in Germany for a 3 year tour with the U.S. Army (we were stationed in Würzburg), we explored the nearby town of Dinkelsbühl, also located on the Romantic Road.

Dinkelsbühl is located in Central Franconia (Franken) in the state of Bavaria.  It was about an hours' drive from our home in Würzburg.  The U.S. military also had a post in nearby Ansbach, Katterbach Kaserne and a small artillery division in Dinkelsbühl itself.  

Dinkelsbühl - like Rothenburg - is a medieval, walled city.  Another walled city of note is Nördlingen, also on the Romantic Road.  

There are several towers along the walls ...

St. George's minster (Münster) is the largest church in the heart of the city, built in the 15th century.

An interesting fact about Dinkelsbühl is that is that during the Reformation in Germany, it is one of only four bi-confessional cities.  There was approximately an equal amount of Catholics and Lutherans living in the city, combining the rights and rule among leaders from both denominations.  This remained until 1802, when it was annexed into the Kingdom of Bavaria.  

There are many more churches, museums, chapels, and streets to explore in Dinkelsbühl than I can mention.  This town is well worth spending a day exploring if you are ever on the Romantic Road!

Other Cities to read about:  

Bamberg

Heidelberg

Rothenburg o.d. Tauber

German Cities & Towns: Bamberg

In an effort to preserve my memories and pictures of Germany, I am writing a series:  German Cities & Towns.  While you can get information about these cities from far more professional websites than mine, these are MY memories, perspectives, and pictures.  I hope you will enjoy them with me!  And share what are YOUR favorite German cities & towns.  

Other cities:  
Rothenburg o.d. Tauber
Dinkelsbühl
Heidelberg

Soon after arriving in Germany in January of 1996 for a 3 year tour in Würzburg with the U.S. Army, we began to explore our surroundings.  
In February, we drove the approximately 65 miles east of our new home to the town of Bamberg.  (The U.S. military's Warner Barracks was also located in Bamberg until 2014).  

Bamberg is located in Upper Franconia (Franken), in Bavaria, on the Regnitz River.  It extends over 7 hills, which gives it the nickname the "Franconian Rome".  

Bamberg has a cathedral and an abbey, dating back to the 12th century.

^Bamberg's famous alte Rathaus (old town hall) has an interesting story.  It was built in 1386 in the middle of the Regnitz River.  The current bishop of Bamberg did not allow for a town hall to be built, so the citizens planted stakes into the middle of the river and created a small island on which to build their town hall.

The neue Residenz was built from 1698 to 1704.  It was initially intended as the home of the prince-bishops who ruled various cities of Bavaria.  

The elaborate Residenz can be toured (for a mere 4.00 Deutsch Mark back in 1996).  We happened to snap pictures of the ball room and the desk that Napoleon used when he passed through Bamberg at one time.  

Bamberg is Germany's largest UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation) city -- and well worth a visit!

German Cities & Towns: Rothenburg o.d. Tauber

In an effort to preserve my memories and pictures of Germany, I am starting a new series:  German Cities & Towns.  While you can get information about these cities from far more professional websites than mine, these are MY memories, perspectives, and pictures.  I hope you will enjoy them with me!  And share what are YOUR favorite German cities & towns.  

First of all, let me show you how I look EVERY TIME I arrive at the Frankfurt airport:  pure joy! 

This was in early January of 1996.  My husband and I were greeted at the Frankfurt airport by my 2nd cousin, who lived in Frankfurt.  We were about to begin our 3 year tour of living in beautiful Würzburg, Germany, thanks to orders from the U.S. Army.  Married just 3 years and before we had children, this was about to be the beginning of an adventure I will never forget.  

As a student of history, my husband was enthralled with the chance to see and explore the places he had yet only read about.  We jumped into traveling immediately!   Our first weekend after settling in was to visit the town of Rothenburg.  It was a mere 40 minute drive away, so we visited very often afterward.

Rothenburg is in middle Frankenland, in Bavaria, a stop along the famous "Romantic Road".  It is one of - if not THE - oldest walled cities in Germany.  It is officially known as Rothenburg ob der (or o.d.) Tauber.  ob der means "above the" ... this city is above the Tauber River.  

Sites to see include Käthe Wohlfahrt's Christmas store.  There are many of these stores across Germany now - and there is even one in Stillwater, Minnesota!  

St. James Lutheran church is lovely ... There are wood carvings by the famous Würzburger resident Tilmann Riemenschneider, which he completed somewhere between 1500 - 1505.

 ^a typical lane in Rothenburg.  I recommend trying a local bakery delight:  Schneeballen (snow balls).  They are crunchy but sweet - a unique "pastry".

source

The town hall of Rothenburg is amazing, there are beautiful garden paths all around the city - and there is a criminal museum in town, if you like the macabre.

Have you been to Rothenburg?  It is truly one of my FAVORITE places in Germany!

OTHER CITIES in the SERIES:  

Bamberg

Dinkelsbühl

Heidelberg